Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
